The Retinoid Blueprint: When to Start, What to Use, and How to Glow

Retinoids have been the gold standard in anti-aging for over 50 years — and for good reason. They’re one of the few skincare ingredients proven in countless studies to change your skin at the cellular level. We’re talking fewer fine lines, smoother texture, more even skin tone, fewer breakouts, and increased collagen production. And here’s a fact that surprises most people: collagen production starts to decline by about 1% per year after your mid-20s. Yes… your twenties! This means that even if you don’t see wrinkles yet, the underlying changes that cause them are already happening. That’s why I love introducing my patients to a smart retinoid routine early on — it’s one of the most effective ways to protect and preserve their skin for the long term.

Retinoids are a family of vitamin A derivatives that work by speeding up cell turnover, boosting collagen, and helping to regulate skin tone and texture. Over-the-counter versions — like retinyl esters, retinol, and retinaldehyde — are gentler because your skin has to convert them into retinoic acid before they can start working. Prescription tretinoin (Retin-A) is already in its active form, so it works faster and delivers more dramatic results, but it can also be more irritating if you start too aggressively. That’s why it’s important to build your skin’s tolerance slowly and strategically.

I tell my patients this: if you’re old enough to be thinking about anti-aging, you’re old enough to start a retinoid. For most, the sweet spot is the mid-to-late 20s, but I’ve started patients as early as 18 for acne and as late as their 70s for rejuvenation. The beauty of retinoids is that they’re not just corrective — they’re preventative. They work in the background to slow down and even reverse some of the changes that time, sun, and lifestyle take on the skin. It’s never too early to prevent, and it’s never too late to improve.

The key is to start low and go slow. I recommend beginning with a pea-sized amount — and yes, just a pea — one night per week. Once your skin adjusts, move up to twice a week, then every other night, and eventually nightly if your skin tolerates it. Always follow with a hydrating moisturizer, and never skip sunscreen during the day. Without SPF, you can undo weeks of retinoid benefits in just a couple of days of unprotected sun exposure. Protecting your skin barrier and preventing irritation will keep you consistent — and consistency is where you’ll see the magic happen.

If you want a retinoid that works without overwhelming your skin, my KD Skin Diamond Line Refine is a patient favorite. It’s formulated with pharmaceutical-grade all-trans-retinol, antioxidant-rich green tea polyphenols, caffeine to soothe and depuff, and hyaluronic acid for hydration. This combination renews skin texture, improves tone, and boosts firmness while minimizing irritation. Many patients tell me they’ve avoided retinoids in the past because of redness and flaking, and Diamond Line Refine allows them to finally get the results without the downtime.

To keep skin balanced and healthy while on a retinoid, I recommend pairing it with KD Skin Liquid Line Refine. This serum combines hyaluronic acid for deep hydration, niacinamide to refine pores and improve tone, and peptides to help firm and support collagen production. While your retinoid is doing the “remodeling work” overnight, Liquid Line Refine keeps the skin strong, hydrated, and resilient — so you get the benefits without compromising comfort. Think of Diamond Line Refine as your nighttime renewal step, and Liquid Line Refine as the daily support that ensures your skin barrier stays healthy.

Why should my patients care about things like this? Because skin health isn’t just about what you see in the mirror today — it’s about what’s happening beneath the surface that will show up in the next 5, 10, or 20 years. Every decision you make about your skincare routine has a compound effect over time. Retinoids are unique because they’re one of the only ingredients that directly influence how your skin behaves, not just how it looks. They encourage your skin to act younger, repair faster, and protect itself better. If you wait until deep wrinkles and sagging appear to start, you’ve missed years of opportunity for prevention. If you start early and stay consistent, you can delay — and in many cases, reverse — those visible signs of aging.

As a physician, I want my patients to understand that healthy skin is functional skin. It’s better at protecting you from environmental damage, healing from irritation, and responding to treatments when your barrier is strong and your collagen is plentiful. Retinoids are one of the best tools we have to make that happen. Pairing them with supportive products like Liquid Line Refine ensures that we’re not only focusing on renewal, but also on hydration, firmness, and overall resilience.

Bottom line: retinoids are your skin’s personal trainer. Start slow, be consistent, and always pair them with SPF during the day. For an effective, well-rounded routine, layer Diamond Line Refine with Liquid Line Refine — the perfect balance of renewal and hydration. Your future self will thank you every time you look in the mirror.

Skip to content